Tel. In 2 minutes I had the visa in my passport and had $80 less in my pocket. The base camp of Pik Lenin is heaven. google_ad_channel =""; The highest temperature and best snow conditions is from early July to mid August. A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan.Another very sad episode in the mountain's history is from 1974 when a Soviet all female team was trapped high on the peak in bad weather. (28), Additions & Corrections Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved.Regarding agencies - I used Ak-Sai in August 2014 - sometimes difficult to communicate in English in camps but otherwise good service".Hautecima adds (July 2015)"Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com) offer flights from Istanbul(Sabiha Gökcen), Dushanbe, Delhi and several Russian airports to Osh.Furthermore they offer flghts between Bishkek and Osh.Their fares are mostly very interesting." More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally higher. The road is going through a sensitive military zone on the Chinese side and special transport has to be arranged. You are allowed to camp anywhere in the area.Base Camp SafetyMany stories about thefts in the BCs are in circulation. It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. You are now in the wide and open Alau Valley and the rest of the way to the turn-off to Pik Lenin BC is a beautiful, but bumpy ride. Reason: Climbers use sticks also when an ice ax would've been more suitable. google_color_text = "000000"; : (+996) 55665 77 99 The green, lush meadows and relative warmth at base camp, makes a big difference compared to equivalents in the area. google_ad_width = 728; The border pass (Kyzyl Art) takes you down to the Alau Valley and Pik Lenin BC is less than an hour away. google_color_link = "0000FF"; Extremely cold (max -26°C on Tue afternoon, min -31°C on Mon night). So it is "cheaper" to fall north, especially if you want your relatives to remember you with kind words. i looked into the Asia Mountains Guide company you listed to find more info and found the site link to have changed. google_ad_width = 200; Just a day previously, team member Luca Dalla Palma (who, together with Elena Spalenza formed this three-man expedition) descended via the Normal route from 6500m using telemark skies. Following this link you can get more useful information about Lenin Peak Ascent: A tragic accident where almost 50 persons lost their lives, a world record try in high altitude mountain bike riding, to mention some. I like this bit: The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. google_ad_format = "336x280_as"; In our groups, exposed films, chocolate, caps, etc. The latter month is supposed to hold the most stabile weather.The area gets frigidly cold in the winter, even though it's not as bad as at the Pik Pobeda area, which holds many records in the extreme climate criteria. If you’d like to know more or request to join the team as a non-alumna, please get in touch. There are small border crossing at various places along the way east, but in order to avoid hassles with confused border guards who see a foreigner for the first time, aim for the main crossing at Andijan/Osh. E-mail: Osh@centralasia-travel.com Getting There - From Tajikistan via Garm and Alau Valleys/A372A much more direct route from Dushanbe to Pik Lenin is to travel via Dzhirgatal. : + 7 (095) 911 77 32; 911 77 73Fax: + 7 (095) 911 77 73E-mail: asiatravel@cityline.ruWebsite: www.asia-travel.uzTour Asia Travel AgencyVadim Khaibullin (director) Radostovtsa str., 359 050060, Almaty, Kazakhstan Tel +7 3272 497936 Tel/fax +7 3272 482573 E-mail:office@tourasia.kz Website:http://www.tourasia.kz. This is by far the best source of information as the local weather forecast station is located a bit too far off to take local weather of the peak into account. Pik Lenin and the Trans-Alay range of Kyrgyzstan offer huge kaleidoscope landscapes with many ski touring opportunities - an expedition on the 7,000m Peak The complete story about the The 1974 Russian womens' tragedy on Peak Lenin, The mountain is most likely lower than 7000m, A Russian military map with all the details, A book-shop which has three maps and books on Pik Lenin, Pik Lenina 2004, highest Slovenian woman ski descent via the Normal route, Simona Graber, An online book-shop which has three items on Pik Lenin. 23/7 Day 11: Load carry/move C2 to C3 (4 hrs), sunny and clear. Normal Route, Lenin Peak (7 134 m / 23 406 ft) overview, tours, guide list, itinerary, gear list, photo gallery, climbers, climbing costs and trip reports You'll get in the ministry of interior and it's free, or $20, again depending on whom you talk to. Detailed map of Lenin Peak area and scheme of arrival in Base Camp of Lenin Peak. Schtraff - translation: Pocket money, fine, bribe, gift, penalty, give me your money, give me your gear etc.As long as you know you have all documents in order, stand your ground and be adamant but polite. Thank you. : (+99871) 20002 99 the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The following agencies have been around for a long time and are supposed to be some of the more reliable. If you climb some hills after Khorog, you may be able too see the extremely spectacular peaks in the Shakhdarinskiy Range. You cross the border to Kyrygzstan another 80-85 km away. I rested for half an hour at 6100m and then descended to 5300m Camp 2, taking one hour. You can also eat in their dining tents for a set fee and if you do so, you're usually allowed to camp for free on their grounds if you use your own tent. It is now possible to fly directly to Osh. If you want to go straight to Pik Lenin and get the permits in Osh, make sure the travel agent knows about this before departure. Thanks in advance. Peak FeePalic addsThere are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. (Days 3-6): A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. Crampons, with non-stick plates to avoid build up of snow. Roughly 330km. the permit fee is still $100/peak and some new and ever-chaging rules about the need for a nature conservation fee applies. google_ad_format = "200x90_0ads_al_s"; The former consisted of a head of Lenin, some small statues of Communist leaders, a triangular metal cone of the same type you can still find on the eastern summit of Elbrus.Unfortunately, most of those cool monuments of past times got stolen some years back.Pik Lenin is a border mountain between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, but ascents from the Tajik side are very uncommon. Regarding agencies - I used Ak-Sai in August 2014 - sometimes difficult to communicate in English in camps but otherwise good service. Camps/snow caves on 5500, 6000 and 6500. (33), Comments The Base CampsThe normal BC is called Pamir Base Camp or Camp Achik-Tash and is located at 3500 m. It's in nice settings and one of few BC's for 7000m peaks which are on grass, in quite warm surroundings. Mountain (climbing) weather forecasts for 5 elevations of Pik Lenin, Pamir, Central Asia Ranges, Tajikistan. Ice axe. This does not has to mean the conditions are too bad for climbing. Places or mountains mentioned in the below text in this section marked with red boxes.The by far most common way to arrive in Kyrgyzstan is by air and a large majority land at Bishkek's Manas international airport. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; After Naryn (360m out of Bishkek) the road condition deteriorates step by step and after Kazarman (560km from Bishkek) the rough climb up the steep 3100m Kaldama Pass can be a taxing and bone-shattering experience. Here's a Warning I found on a page about Pik Lenin. The road mostly follow the border river Pandzh and on the other side you can see the rugged landscape of Afghanistan. Summiteers: V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. In total, 43 climbers out of a 45 die. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; Be sure you are acclimatized before leaving Khorog as the road will stay on a high altitude for a long time ahead. The mountain is climbed during all seasons. Detailed 6 day mountain weather forecasts for … Pik Lenin, West-East Traverse Kyrgyzstan, Pamir In July, Markus Gschwendt (Austria) and Anton Sharobayko (Russia) made a lengthy and unusual traverse of Pik Lenin (7,134m). Within the borders of the old Soviet Union, there are five mountains measuring over 7000m. An extensive article on Explorersweb, by Ian McLagan. Some climbers do and make it to the summit, but then you're really playing high.Nice to have, Do you know if a list of 'snow leopards' is maintained somewhere on the web? Quite a good article here about a snowboard descent in 1999... Do not bring, short technical axes, you'll have no use for them. The 13'th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Normal (Razdelnaya) route. They can help out with everything from support letters/invitations before take-off to transport, BC-services and guides on the mountain.Asia MountainsSergei Dudashvili (director)1, Lineinaja Str., 720021, Bishkek, KyrgyzstanTel. This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. It is the second It's located next door to the Chinibagh Hotel. Website: http://www.centralasia-travel.com Der Pik Lenin in Kirgistan im Tian Shan Gebirge gehört zu den nördlichsten 7000ern der Welt. ), http://www.russianclimb.com/snowleopard/table.htm. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' All these cities have companies or agencies which can arrange the red tape, transport etc.Bishkek is well served by railway and the prices arriving from capital cities in Europe, usually via Moscow are very low, but travel times are long and quite complicated visa regulations in Russia makes you think twice if it's worth the extra hassle. : +996 312 694075; +996 312 694073Fax. It was also the original name before it was called Pik Lenin.The Kyrgyz authorities claims the new name is Pik Sary Tash and the Tajik president's official site declares the official name is Abu Ali ibni Sino (Avicenna). google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; For last minut shopping for provisions or gear, Osh is the only city of any size close to Pik Lenin. Their fares are mostly very interesting. Pik Lenin is included in the Steve and his partners run a little tourist company and can help you with all the arrangements for the Torugurt crossing. 341 likes. Have a good flight ! For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Soviet Snow Leopard Mountaineering Award. 7134m Pik Lenin is well known for predominantly two reasons; as one of the “easiest” 7000m climbs in the world, and as the site of the worst mountaineering accident, by fatality count, to ever occur. Russia ""Why must you people be so serious about all this? Could you add our contacts to the list of agencies, please? I couldn't find one. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. //-->, , Pik Lenin 7134m ( formerly Mount This can be very expensive if talking to the "wrong" people. A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan. The route trav­els up snow and rock even­tu­al­ly reach­ing a plateau at 20,997 feet / 6,400 meters. Final­ly there is a rocky sec­tion that leads to the sum­mit. A final slope of increasing steepness, to around 40-45 degrees, leads to Camp 3 at 6100m-6150m on the summit of Pik Razdelnaya. "The ascent of Lenin peak along the Western ridge is not technically difficult. Green light filtered through the roof of the tent and I lay in my sleeping bag, thinking I’m … You can self arrest with an axe, not with sticks. http://www.centralasia-travel.com/en/expeditions/lenin. If I'm correct, only one person ever climbed all 5 of these peaks from Hungary - Zsolt Erõss (last two peaks in 1994) (also the first Hungarian to climb Everest, in 2002. Osh, Kyrgyzstan E-mail: Tashkent@centralasia-travel.com 25/7 Day 13: Summit Pik Lenin (7.5 hrs) and return to C3 (4.5 hrs) 1 hr on summit, sunny and clear. An extensive article on Explorersweb, by Ian McLagan. The 3000m Dolon pass give you great views of the lush countryside and probably it's here you first see nomads. All the different approach routes to the mountain shown. 24/7 Day 12: Rest day C3, sunny and clear. Zaalaiski is popular among the climbers with graded routes between Russian alpine grades of 2 and 6, mostly on ice and snow. can you still obtain this title?) © 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. google_color_bg = "FFFFFF"; Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia occurred in the period 1774–82. I applied in the Ankara embassy, Turkey. Getting There - From Uzbekistan The road from Tashkent to Qoqand/Kokand is mostly in good condition and there are lots of bus, mini-bus and shared-taxi alternatives. Kyrgyzstan The climb is very much a non-technical… Transfer hotel is paid by Pulkovo.Some years back Aeroflot was the given alternative, but nowadays their prices are not as good as for example Pulkovo. Be sure it's written Gorno Badakhshan A. O. on it. Pik Lenin is located on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. If you want proof that Friday 13th is an unlucky day, look no further. Getting There - From China There are two options:From Kashgar/Kashi via Torugurt Pass or Irkestam Pass.Torugurt Pass. The rest of the way to Pik Lenin is the same as the above route via Toktogul. google_ad_type = "text_image"; 1. On 3 August the Italia Emilio Previtali snowboarded off the summit of Pik Lenin 7134 m, via a new line directly down the North Face. 18A, Zaynabetdinova str. Peak Lenin can be a tough and physically demanding mountain but we have achieved summit success on four previous expeditions due to our unique itinerary that includes a camp 4 at 6400m to shorten the summit day by at least 2-3 hours to less than eight hours compared to other operators (avoiding the normal 10-13 hr. Base infoPik Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000m. Adventure Travel, ,